In certain speculation, life is balanced in relation to the elements of yin and yang. The Hollywood Roosevelt, to me, can best be described as a balance between two contradicting factors: new and old, light and dark, and, at the new restaurant called Public Kitchen, sweet and salty.
I spot the typical young, hip crowd loitering around the entrance of Teddy’s amidst the vintage inspired décor as I make my way to find Haya waiting in a large round booth under a massive chandelier. The lighting in the Roosevelt is hard to figure out, it’s not the most flattering and it’s almost even too dark, yet at the same time, it gives the illusion that one has gone back in time, giving its compliments to the furniture and fixtures more so than the patrons in the hotel. None the less, the plush banquettes and sweeping ceilings in the Americana atmosphere that is Public Kitchen is inviting. The old school décor was the brain child of acclaimed L.A. design team Studio Collective, and rumor has it they even have an ivy-and-fauna-swaddled, sun-dappled private garden room!
While we speak to our kind waiter and the most hospitable bar manager I have ever encountered in my entire LA dining career, we sampled the specialty cocktail menu, which has received its fair share of press and thumbs ups due to the fact that the cocktails are only 9 bucks. First up: The Alexander. Sweet and refreshing, it was a nice balance to the warm environment, and boy was it warm in there! After the air was turned on, and we made our way through a taster menu created by chef Tim Goodell.
A sweet and creamy roasted beat salad, salty mushrooms on toast, super salty monkfish wrapped in pancetta with overly tart lemon butter sauce, slightly over-cooked but still delicious pork schnitzel, and more sweet cocktails. Quite the balance of flavors indeed!
The dessert was by far the best part, a chocolate soufflé and a layered berry crème cake presented in a mason jar were, again, a perfect equilibrium of savory chocolate and sweet tart.
To sum it up, the staff is exceptional and the food is worth the price. I personally enjoyed the ambiance very much, and would recommend a casual evening experience at the Public Kitchen. If not to dine, then to at least sample the cocktails, because they are the best offering. Cheers!
Public Kitchen and Bar: Roosevelt Hotel 7000 Hollywood Boulevard Los Angeles, CA 90028 (323) 769-8888